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Orange Wine – 100% Trebbiano Toscano – Three Months of Maceration
Procanico reveals its tannic soul: three months on the skins transform the white into orange

La Femminella's Trebbiarato Procanico Macerato is an orange wine (or amber wine) that represents the most radical and distinctive expression of Gabriele De Santis's winemaking project: a single-varietal 100% Trebbiano Toscano (Procanico) vinified with an ancestral technique of prolonged maceration on the skins, which radically transforms the nature of the white wine, giving it tannic structure, layered aromatic complexity, an intense amber color, and that powerful oxidative personality that evokes an aged red more than a fresh white. Produced by the La Femminella micro-estate founded in 2024 in Viterbo (Grotte Santo Stefano), where Gabriele manages 6.300 square meters of natural organic vineyards with a minimalist artisanal philosophy, this wine requires three months of maceration on the skins, twelve months of aging in a fiberglass tank, and six months of bottle ageing before being released to the market: a total of almost two years from grape harvest to sale, a testament to patience, courage, and a vision that prioritizes quality and territorial expression over rapid commercial productivity.
The technique of orange wine (also called "macerated white wine" or "amber wine") is very ancient, likely dating back 8000 years to Georgia (in the Caucasus), where even today, white wines are traditionally produced by fermenting and aging for months in terracotta jars (qvevri) buried underground along with the skins, stems, and seeds. This practice, almost forgotten during the 20th century when winemaking shifted toward modern "white" vinification (immediate pressing, rapid separation of the skins, and fermentation of only the clear must to produce fresh, fruity, pale white wines), has been rediscovered in the last 900-30 years by artisanal natural winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia (Italian pioneers such as Josko Gravner, Stanko Radikon), Slovenia, and other regions who have valorized this ancestral technique, creating wines of exceptional character and polarizing appeal beloved by connoisseurs.
The process for Trebbiarato is radical: the Trebbiano Toscano (Procanico) grapes are hand-picked from vineyards 420 meters above sea level on volcanic soil, destemmed (separation of the stalks from the bunches), gently pressed, then the must, along with the skins, seeds, and part of the stalks, is left to macerate for **three full months** in open or semi-open containers where it ferments spontaneously thanks to indigenous yeasts, developing alcohol and simultaneously extracting tannins (polyphenols that give astringency and structure), anthocyanins and flavonoids (pigments that give the amber-orange color) from the skins, complex aromas (phenolic compounds, oxidized terpenes), and a texture that is more reminiscent of a tannic red than a smooth white.
After three months, the wine is separated from the skins (racking), transferred to an inert fiberglass tank where it ages for 12 months, developing further complexity through controlled micro-oxygenation and slow enzymatic evolution. It is then bottled and left to age for another six months in the bottle before release to harmonize its components and allow the wine to "close" after the shock of bottling. Added sulfites are minimal, as with other estate wines: a small dose during fermentation for protection, and a minimal amount before bottling for stabilization.
Trebbiarato has an extraordinary color ranging from intense amber orange to dark golden copper (completely different from the straw yellow of traditional whites), variable clarity (it may present natural hazes given the unfiltered and unclarified character), a complex, layered, powerfully oxidative aroma: dried fruit (walnuts, hazelnuts, toasted almonds, dried figs, dates), candied citrus fruits (macerated bitter orange peel, bergamot), sweet spices (cinnamon, cloves, vanilla), evolved herbaceous notes (chamomile, hay, tea), deep volcanic minerality, and oxidized nuances reminiscent of Sherry, Vin Jaune, and Marsala.
On the palate, the experience is radically different from any white: an astringent tannic structure that dries the mouth like an aged red, a very pronounced mineral flavor amplified by the maceration, the still lively acidity of the Trebbiano that balances the tannins, a dense medium-full body, warm, perceptible alcohol, and a very long, persistent finish that continues to evolve for minutes, revealing infinite layers. A meditative, complex, and polarizing wine intended for curious, expert palates seeking out-of-the-box winemaking experiences, not a wine for immediate consumption.
The technique of vinifying white grapes with prolonged maceration on the skins is probably the oldest existing form of winemaking: the first archaeological evidence of wine production dating back approximately 8000 years in Georgia (Caucasus region) shows wine residues in terracotta jars (qvevri) that were filled with whole or crushed bunches of grapes, sealed, and buried underground where they fermented and aged for months at a constant ground temperature. These wines were necessarily "orange" because the long maceration extracted color and tannins from the skins.
This practice persisted for millennia in Georgia, Armenia, and other Caucasian regions, becoming an integral part of local winemaking culture. However, it almost completely disappeared from the rest of the winemaking world with the advent of modern winemaking, which from the 17th and 18th centuries onward favored separate vinification for whites (immediate pressing, fermentation of the must only) and reds (maceration on the skins). Only recently—from the 1990s to 2000s—visionary producers, primarily in Friuli-Venezia Giulia (a border area with Slovenia where the tradition of macerated wines survived locally) such as Josko Gravner, who traveled to Georgia to study traditional techniques and imported them to Italy, vinifying Ribolla Gialla in qvevri, and Stanko Radikon, who experimented with long macerations, creating revolutionary wines, have brought this ancestral technique back to the forefront.
Today, orange wines are a recognized category appreciated by connoisseurs (though still a niche) that values the maximum expression of terroir, viticultural biodiversity (each macerated white grape reveals unique tannin characteristics), and a non-interventionist philosophy. Gabriele De Santis' Trebbiarato fits into this movement, reviving an ancient technique applied to a traditional Lazio grape (Trebbiano-Procanico) grown on unique volcanic soil, creating a wine that has no historical precedent but expresses a contemporary vision of what a "white" can be when free from convention.
Macerated orange wine offers an extraordinarily rich polyphenolic profile comparable or superior to red wines: prolonged maceration extracts extremely high quantities of tannins (catechins, proanthocyanidins) from the skins, imparting astringency and powerful antioxidant properties; anthocyanins and flavonoids (quercetin, rutin, kaempferol) with proven anti-inflammatory, cardiovascular, and neuroprotective properties; resveratrol (present in both white and red grape skins, effectively extracted by long maceration) studied for its anti-aging properties and longevity; stilbenes; and various phenolic acids.
Recent scientific studies show that macerated orange wines can contain polyphenolic concentrations comparable to full-bodied reds, potentially making them healthier (in moderation) than traditional white wines vinified without maceration. The presence of tannins also slows alcohol absorption, creating a sensation of "drinking more slowly," which encourages informed consumption in moderation.
The calorie content is slightly higher than traditional white wines (about 90-100 kcal per 125 ml glass) due to their denser body and potentially higher alcohol content, minimal residual sugar content (dry wines), and absence of lactose and gluten. Natural, macerated wines with low sulfites may be better tolerated by those with sensitive skin.
Grapes: 100% Trebbiano Toscano (Procanico). Sulfites added in minimal quantities.
The wine displays a bright amber hue with copper highlights, typical of its long aging on the skins. The consistency is evident: it moves slowly in the glass, a sign of significant dry extract and a solid structure.
The opening is complex and layered.
Fruit: Notes of dried apricot, candied orange peel and medlar.
Flowers: Withered broom and hints of chamomile.
Tertiary and Minerals: The volcanic note (flint, light sulfur) emerges forcefully, combined with medicinal herbs such as helichrysum and a hint of chestnut honey.
On the palate, it's a wine with character. The entry is dry and enveloping. Maceration yields silky, vibrant tannins that perfectly cleanse the palate. The volcanic flavor is the underlying theme, extending the finish with citrus and almond notes. The acidity, preserved by the altitude, supports the drink, making it dynamic despite the structure.
The tannic structure allows for typical red wine pairings (cured meats, aged cheeses, meats) while maintaining a crisp acidity that pairs well with fatty fish, fried foods, and spicy ethnic cuisines. Extraordinary versatility.
Contains sulfites (in minimal quantities). May contain traces of grape proteins.
La Femminella is a micro-artisanal winery founded in 2024 by Gabriele De Santis, who demonstrates visionary courage with his Trebbiarato: dedicating part of his extremely limited production (just 2.100 bottles per year from 6.300 square meters) to a wine that requires almost two years from harvest to release, polarizing palates (many will not appreciate it), and challenging every convention of what a "white" should be, is a choice that prioritizes artistic expression and authenticity over commercial certainty. By vinifying the same Trebbiano-Procanico in three versions (Trebbietto, a fresh blend with Roscetto; Trebbiasia, an aromatic blend with Malvasia; and Trebbiarato, an extreme maceration), Gabriele demonstrates extraordinary versatility with the grape variety and technical expertise that masters completely different techniques. Trebbiarato is a declaration of a radical vision that looks to the ancestral past to create a winemaking future.
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